Another non-weekday-lunch, another birthday. Grandad, William George Haylock, turns 87 tomorrow. A splendid innings.
To celebrate we took him for a surprise lunch, to a venue close to his Suffolk home which had been on the radar for a while – Square Meal’s 41st best restaurant outside of London in the UK – Tuddenham Mill.
Set in a splendid, ancient mill building, with original timbers and the now stationary mill wheel behind a modern bar, first impressions were stunning. A pint of Adnams Spindrift, taken slowly whilst I perused the menu for I was driving home later.
Sunday lunch set menu, 4 choices per course. Such choices. Immediately prior to a starter came warm, small crusty breads with unpastuerised butter on the table. My first was a dish of poached ray wing, with peas raw and mashed, chicken skin and sea vegetables.
Splendid. The poached, gelatinous ray was served in strips assembled into a ball, much like a linguini, sat atop the pea mash. The raw peas, sparingly dotted about were marvelous. And the chicken skin was like pork crackling, salting the dish to sea like levels – in a good way. Yum.
The main course was, for me, a choice between Dingley dell pork belly served with fir apple potato (possibly), fennel and some kind of white, possibly goats cheese – or the beef. As you can tell by my already wobbly description, I went pig.
Standards of starter = equalled. This was a lovely bit of pork, with little fat for the cut (including only the thinnnest crackling), whilst the fennel, served pureed and sliced wafer thin were lovely accompaniments. The lemony very soft cheese was not unlike the stuff I’d had with my lamb recently at Maze; it was another great combo.
Mum’s beef was also very good, though I felt I made the right choice. The oxtail on her plate was a particular highlight. The house merlot was nice and light and went very well with both meat mains.
For dessert, I went with Suffolk strawberries with pine ice cream, pine nuts and yoghurt mousse. Right foot, left foot, head. Perfect hat trick. Strawberries spot on, small, juicy and full of flavour. Ice cream golden and very subtlely flavoured, mouse brilliant. Great finish.
I had spotted some petit fours go out earlier in the meal, and though we didn’t have coffee of tea I requested a small slate which I manged to divide up between Grandad, Katie and myself. All were fantastic, including a peppery little fudge piece, and particularly a pistachio encrusted truffle.
The only negative was that the restaurant wasn’t packed throughout. Top nosh at very reasonable prices, it’s refreshing to eat this fine outside of the capital (in my experience). Looking forward to going back.
Happy birthday Grandad. Hope you enjoyed it.
HungryHungryHumpo